Frequently Asked Questions

Our wash method is a custom method we developed through over 25 years of detailing experience. We wash the car using a scratch free method that ensures each time the wash media touches the car, it is clean and uncontaminated by a previous panel. We achieve this, by not re-using the same wash media. We take a clean wash media, and foam it up wipe a small section or panel flip the wash media and do another small section, then it goes into the dirty bin. We never re-introduce wash media that has touched the car back into the car wash solution in the bucket, this way we can fully ensure only clean wash media touches your car, truck or SUV's surface. We have one bucket for our wheels, and another that has the car wash solution in it, but most of the soap or solution is foamed on with either our pressure washer and a foam cannon or foaming sprayers.  We also do a pre-wash foaming cleaner with  to remove 85 - 95% of the dirt and road film before wash media touches the paint. We use Grit Guards in our buckets and top of the line wash media from The Rag Company and Auto fiber. We are very particular about the wash media used to ensure it does not mar the paint in any way. We follow up the pre-wash with a full wash of the fender wells, tires and wheel faces and barrels as well as a hand wash of all exterior surfaces including detailing of all grilles, cracks, crevices, and emblems using soft wash media. We use de-ionized spot free water to ensure a sot free process as well as less damage to toppers and coatings. We provide a moderate level of bug and/or tar removal from bumpers, mirrors, and windshield etc. Then we move on to a mechanical de-contamination using a clay media to remove embedded grit and contaminants from exterior surfaces. Black trim cleaned, conditioned, and protected. Fuel door area, door jams and sills cleaned and detailed. Tires dressed in a non-sling dressing to a satin finish. Air dried and then followed up with a towel while using a drying aid. High grade SI02 sealant applied providing 12 +  protection.

++Done at client's approval.

++Engine cleaned using a foaming engine cleaner and brushes to clean the top engine surfaces and then detailed using a water-based dressing to a satin finish.
++Trunk/Rear Hatch sills and jams cleaned and detailed.

* All Protection time frames, are estimations and will vary depending on how your car is maintained and stored and amount it is driven and in what type of conditions.

**Add-on extras.

**Iron de-contamination available.

**Paint Correction/ Enhancement/ Polishing available, as well as a multitude of Waxes, Sealants and Ceramic Coatings to help protect your cars paint.

We are vintage car owners ourselves and have come up with a specialized plan we use on our cars to help take care of them in the best way possible. We have several wash methods depending on if the car is stored inside or outside and how much it is driven. We also have several options with sealants and Ceramic Coatings and an option we use on our personal cars that utilizes a ceramic coating, topped with another ceramic coating for its  hydrophobic properties. During the install before the first coating totally cures, if you install the second coating the 2 coatings will cross link and cure together. It does extend the life of the coating some, but it's more for the warm wax like glow it gives your classic or vintage car. We then offer a service where we use a paint sealant and a carnauba wax as the toppers in our sacrificial method and this just further enhances the warmth and  glow that will emulate from your vehicle. We have found extremely few ceramic coatings that in our opinion looks right on vintage cars, as we like the warmth and glow from an old school wax, they just don't have enough longevity, but with this combination method you can ensure your classic car is coated and protected as well as waxed and glowing.

When you purchase a new car, it isn't in "new" condition. At the factory, they are parked outside for months at times and all factories have a rail yard and trucking component to shipping and the cars are outside in these environments with the environmental contaminates as well as the Iron fallout from the rail yards. Then they are either shipped in rail car or in open trailers on the road and both of these situations have their own contaminates but both have the risk of iron contamination. All of this when added to the car having paint nibs, bumper and panel alignment issues as well as possible sanding and buffer marks result in a "new car" that is definitely not in a new state. We have a specialized service to address the issues with a new car that will remedy the short comings of the factory and dealers and protect it for years to come.

We used to do a hybrid version of the 3 bucket method. This meant we had a bucket for our wheels, and then a rinse and a wash bucket. In this process a person may or may not foam the car with a foam cannon or sprayer, then they would take a wash media from the wash bucket, and wash a panel. Then they would take the dirty wash media and dunk it into the rinse bucket, some places used water others some type of car wash solution, then they would dunk the media in the wash bucket and proceed to wash your vehicle and repeat until done, but there was only usually one wash media used for the vehicles with the exclusion of the wheels. In our previous method we did a pre-foam wash to remove 85-95% of the dirt and grime, leaving behind traffic film and would then re-foam with a ph neutral car wash soap. Then we would take the wash media from the wash bucket and do a portion of a panel or a panel depending on where it is and how large it is etc, then we would rinse the wash media in the rinse bucket then back to the wash bucket and then do another panel. We would previously depending on vehicle size use 2-4 wash pads or mitts, not including the wheels. We adjusted to our new method because it's safer to your vehicle, we do use an extreme amount more pieces of wash media, but we can guarantee it is clean each time it touches your paint. We are always looking for ways to improve our process and it has been curated from over 25 years of obsession and experience.

We use a dry extraction process, which is very misleading, because we do use liquid chemicals. It just means we do not flood the fabric or carpet with water in the process. To extract the carpets or seats, an extractor is used and it will flood the material with water then it has a vacuum like attachment that comes along right behind to remove the water. The issue is, seats not have heaters, and occupancy sensors not to mention air bags and other electronics, and flooding them with water is never a good idea. Also this process can push or spread the stain on the top portion of your seat down to the foam and it can even extend it as the water re wets the original staining item and spreads it out further. 

We use what is called a dry extraction process, where we use preferably foaming cleaners so they do not soak down into the seat and foam, and we have several different services that uses different chemicals and processes depending on the situation. We also do have an extractor and if that is what has to be done, because there is either no other choice or the risk is worth the reward, because we are extracting a small area and not all of the seats.

To create striping in carpets or carpeted floor matts most places have these cube like rectangle brushes. They will then place it on the carpet and brush it one way, then roll it on it's side to the left or right and then brush the opposite way, they continue this pattern until the entire carpet or carpeted mat area, has these stripes in them. We no longer offer this service because we feel it has the potential to be damaging to the carpets to one constantly brushed in this manner, and there are more concerns if in the past someone has wet-extracted or not rinsed or cleaned all of the cleaning chemicals out of the carpeted area, and it can make the fibers stiff and we feel the pattern isn't worth potential damage to your vehicle's interior.